The end…

The end is upon me. I have been back in the UK now for two days. Just wanted to end this series of blogs with a few reflections.

I never thought I would go travelling again, so I feel I deserve to pat myself on my back for all that I achieved during my time away.

  • I travelled for many weeks completely by myself
  • I planned and organised the whole trip myself
  • I drove the entire way around New Zealand single-handed
  • I crossed continental US
  • I returned back to where I used to live in Melbourne, Australia
  • I caught up with lots of good friends
  • I felt the fear and did it anyway.

It wasn’t always easy. Far from it. I did not take well to hostel life, which made the trip more expensive. I found eating healthy vegetarian food challenging at times. I felt lonely at times. But I also had some wonderful experiences.

  • I delighted in the unbelievable beauty of the Coromandel Peninsula in New Zealand
  • I was heartened by the resilience of the earthquake-stricken people of Christchurch
  • I retraced my steps through beautiful Melbourne
  • I made Laguna Beach and Orange County my second home
  • I was blown away by the sights and sounds of New Orleans
  • I was fascinated by the museums and galleries of Washington DC.

Anyone who has been travelling will always tell you coming home is hard. And it is. But I would not have changed it for a thing. YOLO as the youngsters say…..

Here are a few of my favourite photos from my trip.

 

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Week 15 – Auckland 

Auckland is home to approximately one third of the population of New Zealand. I spent three nights here which is more than enough time to explore the city.

I think Auckland is quite faceless, doesn’t have any real identity or know what it wants to be. The city is chock-a-block full of roadworks too so maybe there’s a grand plan to improve it, who knows. 

Apparently one third of the city is now made up of Asian immigrants and since I was last here in 2005 it feels like it’s morphing into another Asian city like Singapore. 

The Sky Tower is the main architectural site and you can see it wherever you go and they do a good job of lighting it up at night.

SkyTower by day
SkyTower by night

The art gallery is free and had a good collection of Maori portraits as well as twentieth century international Impressionism. 

Rangi Topeora by Gotfried Lindauer

Vanessa Bell Pregnant by Duncan Grant – 1918

Portrait of Anne Howard-Vyse by Tilly Kettle – 1780

My other highlight was The Academy cinema which I visited three times and it shows a great range of independent world cinema.

I saw the sci-fi film ‘Arrival’, the Japanese anime film ‘Your Name’ & the Australian film ‘Girl Asleep’, all of which I really enjoyed and recommend.

Having travelled across the whole country I have to say that Auckland would be the last place I’d settle if I had the choice, though I guess the majority of jobs are here.

New Zealand’s best qualities are the stunning & unique scenery and the friendly people. I hope to return one day soon…

However, I’m excited to be returning to my second home today…..California!

Week 14 – Fjordland, Aspiring National Park, Westland and Abel Tasman

Leaving the very southern tip of New Zealand behind me, I headed west towards Fjordland. This began a leg of my trip with many long days of driving. Getting anywhere in New Zealand takes a while. That’s mainly because there aren’t many straight roads and because there are usually quite a few mountains in the way! On average I think I must have driven four hours each day.

Fjordland

Fjordland sounds like a theme park, and in some ways it is, a natural one. Judging by the numbers of tourists there, it felt like one too at times. The area is very famous for Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound. I didn’t make it that far due to time restrictions, but I did explore some of the area. I came across a beautiful meadow area with thousands of wild flowers (see photo below). It reminded me of Tuolumne Meadows in California. I had the place to myself, which was great, as I cannot stand going to overly touristy places with thousand of busloads of Chinese tourists ruining the experience.

Fjordland meadows
Fjordland meadows
Fjordland meadows
Fjordland meadows

I also visited Manapouri and Te Anu, both of which are lovely small towns on two different lakes. I like to go off the beaten track if I can and experience places where New Zealanders live, and not just where the tourists go. New Zealand is much more popular than when I was last here in 2005 and I fear the change is eating away at what made the country great before.

Queenstown, Wanaka and Mount Aspiring

The next day I drove to Wanaka, via the popular mountain town of Queenstown. The two places couldn’t be more different. Queenstown has become a party place, bucketloads of teenagers all looking for their next McDonalds. It is still beautiful, but it’s not for me. I was glad I chose to stay in Wanaka, which everyone says is like Queenstown was twenty years ago.

Whilst there I drove into Aspiring National Park, which is such a great name! Again, I had the place to myself, with great views of huge snow-capped mountains. The town itself has a beautiful backdrop of mountains, see the photo below.

Lake Wanaka
Lake Wanaka
Mount Aspiring
Mount Aspiring

The West coast

Leaving Wanaka I drove across the Aspiring mountain ranges. I stopped at this amazing places called the Blue Pools. Glacial water is fed down into deep pools which are so clear you can see the bottom. Everywhere you go in the South Island you stumble across majestic waterfalls, mountains streams, rolling hills, it almost becomes commonplace!

River in the Aspiring Mountains
River in the Aspiring Mountains
The Blue Pools
The Blue Pools

I then hit the west coast and glacier country. There are two famous glaciers here, Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier. They were discovered in the mid-1800s and have been tourist attractions ever since.I stayed in Franz Josef town, and you quickly realise what a tourists trap this area has become. Helicopter flight after helicopter flight ferry people up to the top of the glaciers. That really is the only way to see them these days as they both are rapidly retreating. You can only think this is solely down to climate change. You cannot get anywhere near to Fox Glacier due to rockfalls.

Hokitika
Hokitika

I heard that in a few years they’ll both be gone, and then what will become of this area? It is dependant on tourism. Whilst it is interesting, it is nowhere near my favourite place in the South.

One of the things I love about this country is all the diverse wildlife. At Cape Foulwind, near Westport, I saw families of fur seals with tiny baby seals in tow!

Cape Foulwind
Cape Foulwind

The north coast and Abel Tasman National Park

My final stop in the south was the Abel Tasman area. I stayed in a lovely small town call Takaka, and this allowed me to access the park from the least busy side. Driving into the park, I pretty much was on my own. I found a beautiful beach to have my lunch, with white sand and crystal clear sea, it was amazing. I even had a huge skate glide past me! I hiked up to an amazing waterfall in the hills and then walked on the beach in Golden Bay, it was all pretty idyllic. I could’ve been in the Caribbean.

Abel Tasman
Abel Tasman

I am flying up to Auckland tomorrow, which I am looking forward to, but I’ll be sad to say goodbye to the South Island. It has been my third time here and it’s as beautiful as ever. If you ever get the chance, come see what all the fuss is about.

Week 13 – Christchurch, Dunedin, the Otago Peninsula and the Catlins rainforest

Flying back into Christchurch last week, I was reminded of how much I enjoy spending time here. It is my third time in 16 years visiting New Zealand and I love it more than ever.

Christchurch

Christchurch is a city that’s still recovering from the huge earthquake that hit the city in February 2011. I last was there in 2005, and returning in 2016 I could barely recognise the place. The city centre was devastated by the quake and one of the main buildings, the cathedral, had it’s spire toppled and is still in a state of ruin. I was surprised how long the recovery work is taking, but it is happening slowly, the whole city is a building site.

The ruined cathedral
The resilience of the people however is amazing, and chatting to them you see that they have optimism that the future is bright. They have created a temporary shopping centre made out of shipping containers which was pretty cool and even built a temporary cathedral made predominately out of cardboard!

The cardboard cathedral
The old city is still there is in parts though, the River Avon still flows lazily through the city, and you can still be punted along, it kind of reminded me of the city where I was born, Stratford Upon Avon.

Punting on the Avon

Christchurch tram

Dunedin and the Otago peninsula

After I left Christchurch, I headed south to Dunedin. Dunedin translates as ‘Edinburgh of the south’ in Gaelic, and it certainly does feel very Scottish. Lots of Scottish place names and British looking buildings. Lots of the south of New Zealand was settled by the Scots, including the other city here, Invercargill.

One of the architectural highlights of the city is the railway station, photo below. It also a great art gallery, a great vegetarian cafe called ‘Pou Pourri’ and I also found a fantastic second hand bookshop called ‘Dead Souls’!

Dunedin railway station
I then headed off on a drive around the Otago peninsula, just outside the city. It takes about two hours to drive around, and it is definitely worth it. I got up very close and personal with some sunbathing seals, spotted an albatross soaring in the sky above me and saw some dramatic seascapes, cliffs and rolling hills too. Oh and I also saw a rare yellow-eyed penguin. There are only 6,000 in the world, so that was a good spot I thought!

Otago Peninsula

The Catlins rainforest

The Catlins sit between Dundein and Invercargill. I don’t think many people know about the area. It is very remote and very beautiful. I saw some stunning waterfalls, remote and empty white sand beaches, three hawks swoop past my car, fields and fields of amazing wildflowers and much more.

Waterfalls in the Catlins

Remote beach in the Catlins

Invercargill and Bluff

Invercargill is probably even more Scottish feeling than Dunedin. I spent the night here, and it was blowing a gale when I arrived, so it felt even more than Scottish than I had anticipated!

I drove south to a small town called Bluff. This is the most southerly settlement in the country and probably one of the most southerly places in the world. I arrived there on 11 December 2106, exactly three months since I flew out of London to begin my trip, so it felt a fitting place to mark the milestone. From here on in, the only way is north….

Week 7 – New Zealand

So, I finally made it out of California! I was really sad to leave it behind, but there’s a whole world out there!

The Coromandel Peninsula

After a mammoth 13 hour flight from LA to Auckland, I (perhaps unwisely), decided to jump straight in a hire car and drive up to the Coromandel. I have visited NZ before, but had always wanted to visit this part of the country, and boy, was it worth waiting for.

I cannot overstate it enough how beautiful it is. I would have to say it is one of the most amazing places I have ever visited in the world. I drove up the west cost of the peninsula, from Thames to Coromandel town, then across to Whitianga where I spent two nights. The drive is spectacular, and I had the place virtually to myself. Parts of it looked like a set of ‘Lord of the Rings’, parts of it stunning vistas that would not look out of place in the Caribbean.

In Whitianga, I got the ferry across to a small place called Ferry Landing, and walked across to Mercury Bay, a place where Captain Cook anchored on 15 November 1769 and observed the transit of the planet Mercury, and subsequently named the bay Mercury Bay.  The beach there is out of this world, and as I was there at 9.30am I had the place to myself, save for a few seabirds. Heaven. Another couple of beautiful beaches are Lonely Bay and Cooks Beach, see photo below. I also walked up to Shakespeare Scenic Reserve. Apparently this is where William Shakespeare used to vacation. True story.

The other cool thing I did whilst there was visited Hot Water Beach. Wondering what the people in the photo below are up to? They are digging into the sand to create their own mini hot tubs! This part of the beach has geothermically heated water bubbling up.

 

Whakatane and the Maori people

Whakatane (pronounced Phak-Are-Tar-Ney I am reliably informed) is a lovely little town on the east coast. It also has a big Maori population. I visited the ‘Mataatua Maori Marae Experience’ and learnt all about the house that came home. A marae is a meeting ground, and they build a carved house as a place for community celebrations, funerals etc.

In 1870 the house in Whakatane was taken away to Sydney as part of an exhibition, then travelled to Melbourne, London, Dunedin and finally back home over 100 years later after a lot of negotiating It is a beautiful building and was fascinating to hear about its story.

Gisborne, Captain Cook and the first light of the new day

So Gisborne was my next stop, and as it turns out, it is rather an important little place. It is the first place in the world to see the light of the new day. It was catapulted onto the map in 1999 when the hype around the new millennium reached fever pitch and thousands descended on the town to see the light of the first day of the millennium. Apparently Dame Kiri Te Kananwa performed and everything!

Gisborne is also the place where Captain Cook first landed in New Zealand.

 

I also visited a lovely little museum there too and saw some beautiful Lalique glass bowls and vases.

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Napier and the beauty of art deco

The town of Napier in Hawkes Bay was virtually destroyed by fire and earthquake in 1931. This meant the town was then rebuilt in the height of the art deco period and the town has benefited from having some great examples of art deco architecture. Spent a lovely afternoon strolling around admiring the architecture, a few shots below.

I am not even halfway through my tour of the North Island yet (south island to come in December) but am loving my Kiwi adventure so far!