Germany – Ben Hills-Jones

Cologne is a medieval city in the west of Germany. It has three art galleries all of which I am visiting on my trip to Germany.

Wallraf Richartz Gallery

This gallery is in the centre of Cologne, costs 8 Euros to enter and is well worth it. The collection has three distinct areas of the permanent collection:

19th and 20th century art
Baroque art
Medieval art

Paul Signac

Signac was a leading exponent of Neo-impressionism and worked in a style called pointillism, using dots of bright colour. This gallery has a wide collection of his work. I find his work so beautiful, bright and uplifting.

German Impressionism

It took 20 years for the impressionism whirlwind to arrive in Germany. I don’t know much about this movement but I am very impressed, particularly by the work of an artist called Gustave Caillebotte. It seems like his work was largely forgotten for many years, but this gallery has on display many of his works, restoring his place amongst some of the greats of impressionism.

Hill at Colombes, Gustave Caillebotte, 1884

The Yellow Fields at Gennevilliers, Gustave Caillebotte, 1884

Laundry drying on the banks of the Seine, Gustave Caillebotte, 1892

French Impressionism

The gallery also has some great examples from two of my favourite French impressionists, Alfred Sisley and Maurice de Vlaminck. Maurice de Vlaminck is such a wonderful artist, I love his work so much! There is also a fabulous Rodin statue and a great Cezanne.

Outskirts of Louvecinnes, Alfred Sisley, — Outskirts of Louvecinnes, Alfred Sisley

The Bridge at Chatou, Maurice de Vlaminck, 1909

Landscape in the west of Aix-en-Provence, Paul Cezanne, 1878 — The Iron Age, Auguste Rodin, 1876

Medieval art

The gallery has an entire floor dedicated to medieval art, most from the 13th to 14th century. It always blows my mind how these artworks have survived, and how the colours are still so vibrant. Here are some of my highlights.

Medieval painting from the Wallraf Rcihartz museum

The Schnutgen Museum

The Schnutgen Museum in Cologne houses a fabulous collection of medieval and Christian art. Its main collection is housed in a beautiful old basilica of a church, one of the most unique settings for a museum I have ever seen. The name comes from the man who started the collection, donating it all to the city of Cologne. The entry fee is 7 Euros but for an extra 3, you can also visit the adjoining ethnological museum, the Rautenstrauch Josef Museum. I visited both. It is slightly hidden away, you would not stumble upon it, it was very quiet which I liked, but maybe they need to advertise more. As it was fantastic!!

Death

Medieval life had an obsession with death. They feared it, had many theories about what it meant, and represented it often in their art. There are some fascinating pieces in the collection.

Double sided bead from a rosary, this side showing the face of death, 16th century, French

Memento mori in the form of a corpse, 1800, ivory

Head of John the Baptist on a platter, 1500, made from limestone and sandstone

Christian statues and carvings

The gallery has a wonderful array of medieval artworks, mostly in the form of carving. Some are quite strange, for example the carving of St Denis holding the top half of his own head! All are exquisitly carved, the detail of the drape of a cloak or the curl of hair is so amazing, considering how old these pieces are.

Detail from a shrine showing teens from the passion of Christ, 1530, made from oak

Detail from the adoration of the magi, 1480, made from oak — Detail from a shrine showing teens from the passion of Christ, 1530, made from oak

As well as carvings, there are many other paintings and objects. Two of my favourites were a 6th century oil lamp and a 12th century gilded altar panel.

Antependium from St Ursula, 12th century, oak, enamel and gilt

Oil lamp in the shape of a cock, 6th century, cast bronze

The Rautenstrauch Josef Museum

I spent less time here, but as was 10 Euros to see both I thought I would take a look. It’s an incredible modern gallery space and the objects, collected in the 19th century from all over the globe, are presented impeccably. The main objects I was interested in were the buddhist artefacts, as this is something I collect.

Buddha head, Thailand, 14th century, sandstone — Buddha, bronze, Thailand, 1500

Bronze standing bodhisatva, 15th century — Bronze standing bodhisattva, 15th century

The Museum of East Asian Art

I was so excited to visit this gallery! I love Japanese, Indian, Thai, Chinese etc buddhist arts, especially buddha heads and bodhisattvas. It was 10 Euros entry, and is set in a single storey white, minimalist building next to a lake. It should have been everything I like in a gallery. BUT it was not 😦

I was so disappointed. The art in it is all fine, but just almost nothing I like. They had a couple of bodhisattvas, and that was it. I had hoped for more. Very frustrating. As a gallery it is a nice space, just not for me. Here are the three objects I liked. I feel sad just writing that sentence.

The favourite disciple of the buddha, China, 1628 — Bodhisattva, China, 17th century

There are many art galleries in this western part of Germany. I decided to visit two of them, some are closed for refurbishment so my choice was somewhat limited.

The Folkwang Gallery in Essen

I travelled to Essen from Dusseldorf, which is about 30 minutes on the train, to visit the Folkwang Gallery. I think the name means gallery of the people.

It’s housed in a very modern gallery space, think white walls, high ceilings and bespoke lighting. A sign said it was sometimes seen as the most beautiful gallery in the world. Can’t say I agree but it is a nice space.

It is also free to enter which seems unusual but welcome in this part of Europe.

The collection has recently been rehung by theme. A common trend I see in galleries. I don’t think it always works. Placing a 15th century bodhisattva next to a 1940s abstract painting seems a little odd to me. But I guess they are trying to ask viewers to see art in a different way. I prefer art to be displayed chronically or by artistic movement.

Bodhisattvas

An ancient bodhisattva always sets my soul alight! I collect them myself and I always love to see ancient examples, these are from the 16th and 17th centuries. They are so beautiful and serene close up.

Vincent Van Gogh

The collection has a few lovely Van Goghs, always a highlight. Also the Van Goghs were lit amazingly well, the lighting made the paintings sparkle, the colours seemed so vibrant, so clever, loved it!

A corner of the Asylum and the garden with a heavy sawed off tree, Van Gogh, 1889

The wheat field behind Saint Paul's Hospital with a reaper, Van Gogh, 1889 — The wheat field behind Saint Paul’s Hospital with a reaper, Van Gogh, 1889

Early 20th century painting

The gallery has many impressive early 20th century paintings in their collection, here are some of my highlights.

Weisshorn as seen from Montana, Ferdinand Holder, 1915

Flowers in Chinese vases, Max Peiffer Watenphul, 1936

The Water Lilly Pond, Claude Monet, 1916

The Kunstsamlung Nordrhein Westfalen in Dusseldorf

This gallery contains 20th century art, from 1900 onwards, mainly European but has some American artists. There was no exhibition on but the permanent collection was available to see. Entry is €9. The main highlight is the collection of some impressive Picassos.